I first started seeing Estheticians after my Dermatologist told me they had nothing else to offer me after two failed rounds of Accutane.  The very first thing I was recommended by an Esthetician was a series of Microdermabrasion treatments and I had no idea what it was but it seemed like a harmless option after dealing with the side effects of Accutane.  Unfortunately, it didn’t clear my skin and my skin maybbbe looked a tiny bit better...maybe?...but the results were barely noticeable and they definitely did not offer the sustainable, long term effects that I later designed our acne program to offer once I became an Esthetician myself. As an acne specialist, I now know exactly why microdermabrasion didn’t clear my acne and I want to share it with you. If you don’t want to read the long version of this, I will give you the short version: there are very few instances where microdermabrasion is even safe for acne and even fewer instances where it’s actually beneficial for acne (or anything else for that matter) so don’t waste your time or money with it.  

WHAT IS MICRODERMABRASION?

Microdermabrasion is a procedure where an applicator with an abrasive surface is used to mechanically exfoliate and resurface the skin.  The applicator might be an instrument with microparticles or a diamond tipped wand that is passed over your skin while a vacuum sucks up the exfoliated skin cells as they are buffed off. Think of it like an intense version of a scrubbing cleanser or exfoliating brush.  I have heard many people say that it didn’t hurt at all but I remember it hurting plenty.  I mean, it’s basically like sand papering your face but I also don’t tolerate pain well so I am probably not the best person to listen to on that front.  The procedure is supposed to brighten and smooth the skin, clear pores, boost collagen, firm wrinkles, and lighten discoloration.  These supposed benefits are all exaggerated and unrealistic though for common sense reasons I will explain below.

WHY MICRODERMABRASION IS USELESS FOR ACNE

There are two kinds of exfoliation, chemical and mechanical exfoliation, that I discuss in detail in my post The Best Type Of Exfoliation For Acne.  And although exfoliation is an essential part of the clearing process because it helps unclog debris that gets backed up in our follicles when we are born with Retention Hyperkeratosis (the disease that causes acne), mechanical exfoliants like Microdermabrasion are basically useless for acne because they only break up dead skin cells on the surface of the skin.  Acne is not a surface skin problem and neither are wrinkles or discoloration or any signs of aging for that matter. These are problems that START deep down inside of the skin and END on the surface.  This is why I tell my clients that I don’t really care about the acne that we can actually see because by the time acne moves from the bottom of the follicle to the surface of the skin, it’s already at its last stage of life.  So you can scrub and rub your skin until it’s bleeding but whatever results you might see are going to be short lived because you have to target acne where it starts rather than where it ends in order to truly deal with it in a long term and sustainable way.  

WHY MICRODERMABRASION CAN ACTUALLY BE HARMFUL FOR ACNE

Not only is microdermabrasion useless for acne but it can actually be harmful, especially if you have an inflamed acne type.  Any physical exfoliant, even the most gentle ones, causes some level of abrasion to the skin which can cause micro tears that then lead to an increase in inflammation.  Inflammation is just a fancy word for your body’s natural response to injury so inflamed acne  acne is actually caused by a tear in the follicle wall that then sends a signal to your body that you are injured

NO SINGLE TOOL IS ENOUGH TO CLEAR ACNE LONG TERM

Even if Microdermabrasion was able to reach far enough below the surface of the skin to target acne where it starts, it still wouldn’t be enough to clear acne because there is no single solution that is going to work long term for most of us acne sufferers.  Acne is a multifactorial disease and although Retention Hyperkeratosis causes it, there are dozens of other triggers like oil, bacteria, diet and comedogenic ingredients that exacerbate it.  Since acne is a multifactorial disease, it requires a multifactorial approach to get under control. Sure, there are exceptions to every rule so I am sure there are some unicorns out there that tried some miraculous product or procedure and their acne went away forever.  Just like I am sure there are people out there who can get a six pack by just drinking smoothies without working out or maintaining a healthy lifestyle.  But acne is just like our bodies in that most of us need a comprehensive approach to get results.  This approach is exactly what I teach in my e-course The 8 Steps To Clear Skin.

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